Poor Armenia. Enemies to the left (Turkey) and right (Azerbaijan), its patron (Russia) far away, its best friend (USA) farther still. Many people are familiar with California since two of the biggest Armenian populations abroad are in Glendale and Fresno. A feisty girl at the tourist office argued with me about whether Cher is Armenian-American.
Haghpat Monastery above Alaverdi
View of Mt Ararat (in Turkey) from my guest house in Yerevan
Hitchhiking from Alaverdi up to Haghpat--very little traffic but I managed
Kebab for a little more than a dollar
I don't know how I found this place, but I showed up in Alaverdi, asked around, and found a very, very sad room below in this building. I think it was $10.